Ethical Superstore meets Sophie Grigson

As part of our Organic Fortnight Special (6-21 September), Sophie Grigson talks to Ethical Superstore about her solution to cooking organically in times of the credit-crunch, why she loves Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall and her long-term devotion to organics.

Ethical Superstore: What first switched you on to organic food?
Sophie Grigson: I’ve always had an interest in organic farming systems but it became more relevant when I had children. You have a huge responsibility to do the best and it made sense to give my children food that was as pure and untainted by chemicals as possible. But as I got to know more, the biggest motivation became protecting our countryside – my children don’t see the diversity of birds and flowers that I saw as a child – and conserving our global environment.

Ethical Superstore: What first switched you on to organic food?
Sophie Grigson: I’ve always had an interest in organic farming systems but it became more relevant when I had children. You have a huge responsibility to do the best and it made sense to give my children food that was as pure and untainted by chemicals as possible. But as I got to know more, the biggest motivation became protecting our countryside – my children don’t see the diversity of birds and flowers that I saw as a child – and conserving our global environment.

As a cook, do you think organic food really tastes better?
SG: When organic food tastes better, I believe it’s due to the husbandry and the passion of the individual producers. People put so much care and attention into how organic food is farmed, including the varieties used. Tests do show on the whole that organic food contains less water, which should improve the flavour, so maybe there is some difference because of the organic system, but I think it’s mainly because of the husbandry.

What’s your advice to get the best from organic food.
SG: You should really go for primary products and tread carefully with value-added products. I tried a flavoured couscous once, which was disgusting. You have to pick and choose.

Hit by the credit-crunch, shoppers may avoid organics because of the price – what’s your advice for cooking organically on a budget?
SG: I would say rather than avoiding organics altogether, assess what you eat and try to strike a balance. Go for a diet that is higher in grains and beans and use more of the cheaper organic vegetables – rather than the premium priced produce. Eat less organic meat but then occasionally indulge in good quality well-hung meat. It’s easy to say ‘I can’t afford it’, but I would say instead, try a new way of cooking and do it within your budget to have the best you can.

Do you grow your own vegetables?
SG: I’m not a good gardener. I have a fantastic pick-your-own nearby, so they do the work and I get fresh vegetables. I do grow fruit and herbs though. Herbs are great for saving money.

Has the rise of farmers’ markets surprised you?
SG: No. As a nation we had become complacent about food and although we could find a wider range in supermarkets than perhaps anywhere else in the world, this was no good as the quality was often second grade. Farmers’ markets appeared at a time when people were craving really fresh produce that actually had a flavour, or meat that tasted like they remembered as a child. Farmers’ markets emerged at a time when consumers were evaluating what it means to have a ‘supermarket only’ culture.

Can shopping at farmers’ markets improve your cooking?
SG: Absolutely. They give a new lease of live to everyday cooking. I think everyone should go to a farmer’s market at least once a month to get excited by food again. You can talk to the producers to get advice and suggestions, which really perks up your enthusiasm for cooking.

You are patron of the Children’s Food Festival – how should we get children involved in good food?
SG: The Festival, which started last year, has been very exciting. With children you want to enthuse them and the Children’s Food Festival is very hands-on. Children can make bread, pasta, pesto and even sushi. I’m delighted that the government is going to insist on cookery lessons in school, but I hope they don’t make them too dry. It’s no good saying ‘you have to eat five veg a day’ and then give them a test. You have to give them a buzz.

How did your mother, famous cook Jane Grigson, give you that buzz?
SG: The kitchen was always the centre of the house, so I guess I learnt to cook good food by osmosis. I saw how much pleasure it gave and how much my mother enjoyed it.

Celebrity chefs are still influencing public perception on food – who do you admire?
SG: I admire Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall enormously. He knows his stuff and is a great pioneer and leader. His campaign against intensively reared chickens was fantastic. For him to have persuaded Channel 4 to take it on was superb. When I was doing my Channel 4 series (Grow Your Greens, Eat Your Greens), I was told that we couldn’t cook with organic food or use a free-range chicken because it was elitist! It would have been tough to get them to take the campaign on back then. Things have really changed and I’m delighted to see it.

For Sophie Grigson’s Food and Wine Tours: www.greatexperiencetravel.co.uk

Children’s Food Festival: www.childrensfoodfestival.co.uk

Why not share your tips and suggestions for going organic on a budget; how to get children enthused about eating good food, or simply your tips for getting the best out of organic food.

As always, leave your comments below!

You may also like...

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *